Fabstraction

Precious too big for Vogue

2010-03-27T09:36:00.005-04:00

According to Anna Wintour, Wicked Witch of the Upper West Side, the only reason why Oscar-nominated, break-out star Gabourey Sidibe hasn't graced the pages of Vogue is because of her size. Quelle surprise. There was a bit of talk about her being in the upcoming issue of the Fashion Bible, but those rumors were instantly quashed.

Earlier in the year Sidibe was snubbed from the pages of Vanity Fair's annual Young Hollywood issue, so it's not like she's a stranger to this sort of discrimination. However, this is the sort of thing to which no one should ever be desensitized.

I've blogged about this dilemma before. Everything for Vogue is in a sample size, and there's just no room for plus size, even when plus size is just a size four. There must be some way to combat treatment like this in the fashion industry. Progress has been made with runway models being required to maintain a BMI of over 17, but how strictly is that regulated? I just feel like there is so much more that needs to be done.

Yes, it IS possible to hate Ed Hardy even more

2010-03-24T11:26:00.006-04:00

Although nothing has been confirmed, most are buzzing about the Lindsay Lohan/Ed Hardy handbag design collaboration. So now you too can be the proud owner of a tattoo-patterned bedazzled purse with a secret compartment for your blow!

Keira Knightley for Chanel. Halle Berry for Revlon. Sarah Jessica Parker for anything that she can put her name on. Celebrity spokesmodels are supposed to convince people to want to buy the product. It's as if Jon Gosselin wasn't enough to alienate potential customers!

Earlier this month "actress" Lindsay Lohan ended her partnership with Emanuel Ungaro after just one collection. I still can't decide whether the skimpy collection was design genius and a fun punch of color in an industry where black is becoming cliche, or a total fashion disaster.

Ungaro collection images from NY Daily News

What's in your purse?

2010-03-23T16:34:00.006-04:00

I am not embarrassed when I tell you that my purse is from Target. I have my meager share of designer "it" bags, but my art student budget doesn't allow much extra room for extravagant purse-buying binges. I spent all of $19.99 on my cognac-colored (fake) leather hobo, and that's perfectly fine with me, as it was splattered with oil paint (along with all of my other worldly possessions) within a matter of hours.

Along with the usual keys, wallet, and checkbook, I'm certain the contents don't differ much from anyone else's. But since it's been a slow week in the fashion world, I thought I'd give you a run-down. And since no one likes words, I made a collage:

So I'm an Apple whore, what of it? Also, if any of you are considering the Tarte cheek stain, go for it! It will be the best blush you ever own. It will also be the last blush you ever buy, because it basically never runs out.

What I Wore Today

2010-03-20T22:54:00.005-04:00

Excuse the less-than-stellar i-Phone quality, but I had to make do. Thought I'd share the outfit I wore out to dinner tonight. I'm crazy about this combination, but the photos I took don't quite do it justice. Even so, enjoy! Happy weekend!

Top: J. Crew
Leggings: J. Crew
Shoes: Anne Klein
Bangles: Bloomingdale's
Necklace: American Eagle Outfitters

Breasts For the Rest of Us

2010-03-19T17:43:00.010-04:00

Everyone has been talking about this hot topic, (and by everyone I mean the New York Times and Style.com) and with good reason. Even more ubiquitous than fur this season was breasts. On models. Can you believe it?

The important Italians, such as Donatella Versace, Miuccia Prada, and their like have all made it clear about their position that clothes hang better on boyish bodies. But to put it boldly, the runways were simply saturated with curvy women this season, especially the Louis Vuitton show.

But Armand Limnander for the New York Times brings up a good point:

Why is it that curvy women in fashion must invariably be stereotyped as pinups? Do you absolutely have to be rail thin to wear a sharp blazer, a pantsuit or a short beaded dress? It’s as if the only alternative for a woman of a certain size was to cinch her waist, put a bow on and exhibit her chest on a ruffled platter.

Despite his insight, I can't help but assume by "women of a certain size" he is referring to women who are not model sized. So even if you're a size four, you're doomed.

The iconic Laetitia Casta in Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton was no exception, and her cups had all but runneth over. This is a step in the right direction toward the promotion of a better body image in the fashion industry. My inner Betty Fridan wants to see real women on the runway, but how likely is it that it will catch on?

The Sound and the Furry

2010-03-15T13:09:00.005-04:00

Sorry for the lack of updating; I live in the Northeast of the US, and have been without power for days due to the storms. Having no water has definitely taken it's toll, and being without heat has been more than inconvenient. If only I had a fur coat. Faux, of course!

Now that fashion month has strutted it's final runway, we can see a serious pattern emerging: the fur was flying! According to the New York Times, who gets their information from Style.com (who doesn't?), over two thirds of New York designers have returned to fur. Who has the money for that, especially in a recession? Carine Roitfeld obviously does, as she was seen at NYFW in an Ohne Titel fox coat.

We expect a pro-fur argument from the likes of Anna Wintour and Oscar de la Renta, but what about Thakoon or Derek Lam?

What is the general consensus on fur? Is just a touch, here or there, acceptable, or do you do the full-on mink coat? Personally, the idea of wearing the skin of something that used to breathe, have sex with others of its own kind, and live in the wilderness kind of grosses me out. But what about other options: is faux fur a faux-pas? In my opinion at that stage it's just tacky. Fur is a status symbol, and imitation fur is imitation status.

"If the Gestapo took away your Bloomingdale's charge card, you'd tell 'em everything."

2010-03-11T18:57:00.007-05:00

...Or so says Woody Allen to fashion icon Diane Keaton in Annie Hall. Today my mother and I practically burned off the magnetic strip of her Bloomingdale's card, which is actually pretty unusual for her as she's the most frugal, unfashionable person I know. Considering my tom-boy Mom is sandwiched between my beautiful and stylish Grandmother and her label-obsessed daughter (yours truly!), it's clear that fashion sense skips a generation.

But what about fashion that transcends generations? Women today are wearing menswear the same way they did it in 1977, because of Diane Keaton. Do you know anyone who doesn't own a vest? I think it's fascinating that what was one woman's particular fashion eccentricity, decades later is a wardrobe staple.

We have Audrey Hepburn to thank for the LBD.

Irene Castle is credited with popularizing short hair in the 1920s, and she talks about the advantages and disadvantages about it in this hilarious essay.

Who are your favorite fashion icons? How would the world of fashion be worse off without them and their contributions?

Fashion Fit for a McQueen

2010-03-10T16:00:00.002-05:00

Yesterday was the debut of Alexander McQueen's last looks. The major theme, said McQueen's right hand Sarah Burton, was finding light and beauty in the Dark Ages. He was one of the most innovative and artistic designers around, and a personal favorite. So I thought I'd just share some of my favorite looks from his last show, sans snarky comments. Enjoy!

"If fashion was porn, this is the money shot!"

2010-03-08T10:43:00.008-05:00

Gabourey Sidibe isn't the most eloquent speaker, a point she hammered home after comparing the Oscars to prom for Hollywood, and describing Oscar fashion as "the money shot." No matter, because she was stunning in a blue Grecian-draped gown by Marchesa with sparkly floral appliqués. Also in Marchesa (appliqués included!) was Best Actress and potentially best dressed Sandra Bullock, who looked like a shiny, mercurial column of gorgeousness.

If Fashion Week is like play-offs, the Oscar red-carpet is the proverbial Super Bowl. But lately there hasn't been much action, it seems. The A-List crowd is more concerned with playing it safe than wowing the likes of Joan Rivers and the rest of the Fashion Police tonight. I understand not drawing as much attention to yourself if you're just a presenter and not a nominee, but that's no excuse for Penélope Cruz in Donna Karan. From the waist up, her architectural frock was flattering, but below that it just dragged behind her.

Best Supporting Actress Maggie Gyllenhaal donned a patterned and strapless Dries van Noten and looked just fine. But that's just it, she was only fine. I would've expected someone with her spunk and personality to wear something more inspired. The same goes for Kate Winslet in YSL, Julianne Moore in Calvin Klein, and even the woman who controls the Earth, Oprah Winfrey in Carolina Herrera. And while Charlize Theron was trying hard with a lavender Dior, the bizarre rosette pasties simply were not working.

But there's some adage about photos and a thousand words, so I'll just share my three best and worst dressed of the evening:

Best Dressed:

Usually newcomers play it way too safe or go overboard, but Anna Kendrick in Elie Saab hit the hail on the head.

Vera Farmiga looked stunning Marchesa. I really love structured, architectural details. And that raspberry color on her is perfect.

And a personal thank you to Zoë Saldaña (is it weird that I love all the accents in her name?) for sporting this ombre Givenchy Haute Couture gown, because it's just that beautiful.

Worst Dressed:

Tina Fey, wearing Michael Kors, is a personal hero, and as a fellow geek I hate to do this, but sister needs to realize she spends like 96% of her time on the worst dressed list. She needs to hire whoever styled her for last month's Vogue to follower her around everyday.

Kristin Stewart's Monique Lhuillier gown isn't so bad, but it's simply not for her. She looks frumpy and matronly, and that posture isn't doing her any favors, either.

J. Lo in an Armani Privé bed sheet. Why?

Why, Vivienne? WHY?

2010-03-07T23:09:00.004-05:00

How is it that the woman responsible for bringing us Carrie Bradshaw's magnificent, modern, mind-blowing wedding dress (so what? I liked it) is responsible for the monstrosity that occurred two days ago? I'm having a hard time rationalizing tagging this under "Fashion," but I'm trying to remain open-minded.

It appears that Vivienne Westwood managed to make her Fall 2010 pret-a-porter collection an homage to the oft-referenced Great Depression-era psychedelic tranny hoooker. No words, folks. None at all.

Okay, to be fair, most of the clothes are fine. But there are just a few outfits that really seem to ruin the entire aesthetic of the show. Also, the moustached models really detract from the entire collection.

Country Horse, City Horse

2010-03-06T10:17:00.007-05:00

From start to finish Dior was like a nineteenth century day at the races. It all started with the sounds of a neighing, galloping horse and evolved into jodhpur-clad models donning countryside couture. Early in the show were oversized leather highwayman capes worn over chic and frilly chiffon dresses. Most of the models had on thigh-high boots in leather and suede that prevented the rest of the outfits from getting too sticky sweet.

John Galliano remained true to the 1800s time period by incorporating classic and sturdy looking plaids with tailored cropped jackets and form-fitting pencil skirts. And then, there were the hats; the beautiful assortment of hats. Newsie-caps, top hats, and everything in between.

I hope that this trend gets a lot of attention this fall. I think a hat is just as integral to an outfit as a great bag or pair of shoes. Remember the days of yore, when men couldn't go outside without a hat? JFK was the first president to be seen in public regularly without a hat, and I'm holding him responsible. Hats add a certain distinctive quality to an outfit, and allow you to personalize it.

But enough about hats, there's still more Dior!

John Galliano did a seamless job of fusing the English countryside-esque, fox hunting-inspired riding outfits with the lavish elegance of nineteenth century urban Paris. The gowns looked like a collaborative design between Josephine Bonaparte and Daisy Buchanan, which I think is a very high compliment.

The whole collection, down to the last ruffles, was divine. It was a time machine to a whimsical, rosy-colored, bygone era where people wear their Sunday best to brunch. And while the entire show was almost perfect, it was the gowns that harkened back to Dior's 1947 "New Look" roots, as they were truly luminous.

We'll ALWAYS Have Paris

2010-03-04T21:52:00.007-05:00

I'm an art history major with a leaning toward modernism. I've been a francophile since I was twelve, and I think of Paris as a sort of dream. In fact, I used to work in a café owned by an Italian ex-pat chef who used to tease me in lilting, vowel-flooded, broken English, "Leez, you-a too French for-a me. You-a gonna run off to Pay-ris, anna leave-a me?" And yes, Antonio, after the shows in Paris this week, there's nowhere else I'd rather be.

The Balmain Woman doesn't concern herself with weather-appropriate outfits, or looking office-practical. The Balmain Woman isn't afraid to wear a leggy gold lamé number in the daytime, or a jacket that looks like the product of a one-night-stand between Hawkeye from MASH and Sgt. Pepper. She owns it, and her sidewalk is her runway. Good Christ I wish I could afford to be that woman. Christophe Decarnin's disco-themed collection was full of textures. Velvet, brocade, fringe, fur, and leather all made appearances. The entire show looked as if a herd of supermodels raided David Bowie's closet and put on the most flamboyant outfits they could get their hands on, and I mean that in the best way possible.

I don't think there is anything left to say about it, so I'll leave you with pictures.

Naomi Campbell: 1, Driver: 0

2010-03-03T16:50:00.004-05:00

Naomi Campbell, widely considered to be the scariest model on Earth, beat up another unsuspecting employee. Says the New York Times:

Ms. Campbell hit her driver as he drove through Midtown about 3 p.m. Tuesday and then ran away after the driver pulled over, according to the account the police gave shortly afterward. The driver had a small bruise under his eye from hitting the steering wheel after she struck him, the police said.

Her driver decided not to file charges, which is probably a smart move on his part. Naomi Campbell is not afraid to throw down, especially with people who work for her. Anyway, I bet Fashion Week at Rykers this season will be to die for.

Pucci--Dangerous and Daring

2010-03-02T16:03:00.004-05:00

Despite the usual amount of Prada-drama (and Miuccia is as dramatic as it gets!), Milan Fashion Week has seemed relatively tame, n'est-ce pas? But Pucci's Peter Dundas has managed to set himself apart from the Milanese malaise.

Finding an unusual balance between bohemian and tailored themes, the focus at Pucci this fall is definitely texture. I can honestly say that there is something for everyone in this highly diverse collection. Dundas referred back by using the archived prints that first set Pucci apart, but gave them a new twist with sexier silhouettes, different construction, and even dip-dying some floor-length numbers. Last year Dundas was criticized for not envoking the traditional Pucci style. Do you think he's learned from his mistakes, or simply trying to appease his audience?

What also seems like it might be an apology for last year are the jackets, that were notably more tailored than his Fall 2009 pret-a-porter pieces. This season they hit at all the right places, but if you'll remember from last year, the fox fur blobs that made their way down the runway weren't a total hit. Granted, they weren't a total miss, either; perhaps just misguided.

Even so, this year's jackets have unmistakable silhouettes and strong lines. They work in harmony with the rest of the collection, and definitely maintain the Pucci legacy. It was refreshing to see something that still had spectacle, emotion, drama, and formality without going overboard and stepping into the unwearable-ready-to-wear zone.

Stiff Upper Lip

2010-02-28T17:15:00.003-05:00

I have to echo Sarah Mower when it comes to Burberry Prorsum's jacket selection last week: the only problem is which one to choose. Military and aviator themes have been huge lately, and Christopher Bailey has been hitting every note. While the proportions, lengths, and construction were all superb, one has to keep in mind that these are indeed jackets. Jackets from Burberry, the company that is responsible for taking a tired London Fog trench and bringing it to the next level. They long ago set the standard for outerwear, and while it's good to know what you're good at, maybe we could have seen something more innovative.

These are super-wearable pieces; so wearable that they flood the racks at H&M and Forever 21. We all know that Balmain does the Sgt. Pepper jacket the way it should be done, and maybe Burberry should think about leaving that to the French.

Ever referring back to his Scottish provincial background, Christopher Kane's models strutted the runway wearing something along the lines of bad-girl-turned-headmistress. I definitely think he's going to be pushing the envelope for a long time to come, but this collection just didn't move me. Each piece looked more stiff and severe than the last, and I have to question just how fashionable this really is. And haven't we seen gladiator sandals before?

All in all, I was pretty underwhelmed with London this season. But in my opinion, it's always very hit or miss. Luckily, Milan is shaping up to have all the drama and theatricality that anyone can expect from the Italian designers.

Good-bye, Bryant Park

2010-02-26T21:35:00.008-05:00

For a few weeks each year, some soccer moms and dog walkers are mildly inconvenienced by the New York Fashion Week's temporary tent city. And last week the invitation-only elite gathered for one last time in Bryant Park to say good-bye to the garment district's backyard. Okay, I wasn't actually there (duh) but I can't help but see this as the end of an era.

Designer fashion is in a state of decline for a multitude of reasons: the economy, a general trend away from "frivolity," the recent deaths of some big designer names (Yves St. Laurent, Alexander McQueen), the war on terror, the war on drugs, a republican governor in Massachusetts, and lots of other reasons I disagree with or choose not to believe. Bryant Park has been the backyard of the garment district since the beginning, and the move to Rockefeller Center just seems out of place. It's taking something that's so exclusive, so wholly "New York" and putting it in the center of Tourist-opolis. Even so, let's review the gems that one last Bryant Park Fashion Week has given us.

Inspired by a Tex-Mex border town, Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte rocked my North-of-the-border world. Cathy Horyn of The New York Times, who I usually agree with, thought the concept wore thin, but I find that hard to digest considering the sheer amount of layers. The construction looked solid and the silhouettes mesmerizing. The washed-out florals and gauzy draping created an ethereal, whimsical collection. Each model looked like a little girl putting on every garment in her mother's closet, exploring what it means to be a woman. Maybe some of the pieces were more underwear-on-the-outside themed, I cannot help but be sincerely moved by the honesty and and beauty of this collection.

But in all honesty, it's called ready-to-wear. How wearable do you really think this is? The pieces can be worn one by one, but would you show up to your office, class, dinner date in this dress? Certainly not. But where's the fun in that?

Of the more wearable pret-a-porter collections in New York last week was Nanette Lepore's. Feminine, flirty, flattering. But most of all, wearable. I can see myself going to class, grabbing a coffee, living my life in this outfit. The whole collection is more accessible than the Rodarte, but it's still art. Nanette Lepore saturated the runway with rich fabrics and romantic patterns. A velvet military-inspired jacket, ubiquitous this season, seems perfect for the damp chill of autumn. I can't think of just one word to sum up this collection, but that's because this it shouldn't be limited to just one.

Blogging? Moi?

2010-02-25T13:17:00.000-05:00

What better time than fashion week to start my blog, n'est-ce pas?

The point of this whole thing is to explore fashion, art, design, and anything in the category of "the aesthetic." It's not shallow, it's not vain. I like pretty things, and I want to write about them. Also, I most definitely need a hobby.

Here you can expect to see things like reviews of designer collections, art shows, general musings on designers and artists, and the ruminations of an art student. But in the meantime, I've got class.